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A sign that reads Grotto Azura, with tenements and a blue sky in the background.
Here’s how to do the neighborhood right.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Where to Actually Eat Well in Manhattan’s Little Italy

Blow right past those aggressive salespeople to the legit good food

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Here’s how to do the neighborhood right.
|Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Manhattan’s Little Italy is home to a seemingly endless collection of overpriced, wildly mediocre restaurants packed with tourists twirling spaghetti on their forks. Let’s face it: New Yorkers don’t often eat in Little Italy, a honky-tonk stretch of Mulberry Street north of Canal dotted with restaurants where the red sauce often tastes like it might have been pumped from a single underground reservoir.

But in 1890, when over half of all Italians in New York City lived in Little Italy, the neighborhood extended much further, from East Houston to Chambers Street, and from Broadway to the Bowery. Do yourself a favor, and venture to the outer limits of the old neighborhood, where some of its best Italian restaurants still linger. Courthouse favoriteForlini’s has sadly closed, but Little Italy still has plenty of dolce vita left.

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Emilio's Ballato

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Emilio’s is off the beaten path on the northernmost edge of Little Italy, on a shadowy stretch of Houston Street over which a statue of Puck fromA Midsummer Night’s Dream迫在眉睫。裏麵,找到一個餐廳掛著在改變liers and walls lined with framed photos, over which owner and chef Emilio Vitolo presides. Bowie was a regular, and a little shrine is dedicated to him, and you may spot other celebrities like Lenny Kravitz, Rihanna, or, at least on one occasion,Barack Obama.食物是基本的簡單性。開始with the fried zucchini or the tripe marinara, then proceed to a plate of fresh tagliatelle alla Bolognese or the linguine with white clam sauce.

Photos and paintings hang on the wall of a white tablecloth Italian restaurant, Emilio’s Ballato.
The interior of Emilio’s Ballato suggests great age.
Eater NY

It’s no surprise that some of the best food in Little Italy can be had at its fresh-faced newcomers, some of which have garnered citywide reputations and become chains. At Parm, the sub shop from chefs Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi, heros rule. The meatballs in meatball parm really melt in your mouth, and the eggplant version offers bottomless depths of flavor at this modern classic in the middle of old Little Italy.

A sandwich cut in half on a seeded roll with squished meatballs and tomato sauce inside.
Parm’s meatball parm.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Rubirosa

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For over a decade, Rubirosa has been the favorite family pizza destination of Eater staffers. Go early to secure a table and don’t miss the steamed artichoke or the sweet creamy vodka pizza. Gluten-free diners and large groups are especially pandered to here, and the place has some pedigree: The pies were at least partly inspired by the super thin crusts at Joe & Pat’s in Staten Island, with a branch in the East Village.

A dining room seen at a tilt with people standing and seated and laughing.
The crowded dining room at Rubirosa.
Daniel Krieger/Eater NY

Peasant

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Founded in 1999, Peasant was one of the first Italian restaurants in town to prepare most of its menu in a wood-fired oven, which is a magnificent sight to behold in the restaurant. From it fly chickens, whole fish, lamb merguez, and even a whole pig, which must be ordered in advance. Originally founded by Frank DeCarlo, he was replaced by chef Marc Forgione a few years ago, and there’s a newer wine bar in the basement for more informal dining and drinking.

A brick-lined oven with pigs on a spit roast.
The wood-burning oven at Peasant.
Michael Condran/Peasant

Lombardi's

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Lombardi’s was, quite simply, the place where modern pizza as we know it was invented. Gennaro Lombardi opened this pizzeria in 1905 (the original was further down Spring Street), using a coal oven to bake his large, profusely topped pies, leagues different from the tinier, barer, and damper pizzas back in Napoli. Consider the clam pie, every bit as good as those at Frank Pepe’s in New Haven. The 16-inch pizza arrives blanketed in tiny bellies, with a lemon propped at its center. Coated in olive oil, the thin crust provides a crunchy, blank canvas for the garlicky, parsley-flecked mollusks.

Four red shirted and white capped employs bend every which way to make the pizzas.
The pizza makers at work in Lombardi’s kitchen.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Pasquale Jones

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The pizza is good at this younger sibling of Italian restaurant Charlie Bird, under the direction of chef Ryan Hardy. Some go in unexpected directions, such as the Brussels sprouts pie with red onion, or the Salsiccia, with sweet sausage and leeks. There are some great apps, too, including chopped salads and hamachi crudo, which double as drinking snacks for a wine listmore expensive and adventuresomethan is usual for a pizzeria, making this as much a wine bar as a restaurant.

A chair, many wine glasses, and a whole pie littered with capers and clams.
The clam pie at Pasquale Jones.
Daniel Krieger/Eater NY

Alleva Dairy

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Founded in 1892, Alleva claims to be America’s oldest cheese shop. Sure you can get scintillatingly fresh mozzarella and ricotta there, plus a raft of other cheeses appreciated by southern Italians, but Alleva dispenses hero sandwiches, too, of massive girth and incorporating the shop’s own cheeses and cold cuts.

A green awning on a very old looking shop specializing in Italian dairy products.
This century-old cheese shop doubles as a home for massive hero sandwiches.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Di Palo's Fine Foods

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This fifth-generation Italian deli owned by Lou, Sal, and Marie Di Palo (one of them is likely to wait on you) opened in 1910 on Mott Street as a latticino, selling freshly made mozzarella and ricotta. Now it specializes in all manner of imported Italian products, especially cheeses and cold cuts. Brace yourself for a wait, though there’s great people watching, and generous samples as you finally transact. Mozzarella and ricotta are still made on the premises.

A skin on bronze colored pork roast cut in thick slices.
Sliced porchetta at Di Palo.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Ferrara Bakery

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The hazelnut gelato here is creamy and nutty, or choose from dozens of other flavors, all made in the back. Loaded down with Victorian glitz, the bakery has been doing things right since 1892. The cannoli have a snappy shell, putting the neighbors’ soggy ones to shame, and the sweet ricotta filling has plenty of chocolate chips and candied citrus mixed in. Got room for more? Crackle through the flaky waves of pastry that wrap the Bavarian cream in the luxurious lobster tails, a spinoff of Neapolitan sfogliatelle, which are stuffed with semolina and ricotta and dotted with candied orange peel.

Aunt Jake's

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Aunt Jake’s has retooled the idea of an Italian restaurant with a modern design and a menu centered on fresh pastas that allow the customer to mix and match a dozen noodle shapes and the same number of sauces. It’s impossible to go wrong with, say, tagliatelle and an eggy carbonara, or herbed four-cheese ravioli mantled with pesto. There are gluten-free options, too, and the app list is longer and more varied than most, meaning you could make a satisfying meal of mushroom-laced rice balls or avocado and poached-egg toast.

The bowls of pasta, including one at the bottom with a squid ink pasta.
A selection of pastas from Aunt Jake’s.
Aunt Jake’s

Umbertos Clam House

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Back in 1972, crime bossJoey Gallowas gunned down here during dinner, making Umbertos famous for generations before theSopranos.The key is to order anything with clams in it. The littlenecks on the half shell are fresh, clean, and ice-cold, and so are the ample martinis. Baked clams, linguine with white clam sauce, seafood Marechiaro (an assortment in red sauce over pasta), and fried calamari with the hottest of the three sauces are further good choices.

一個藍色的awninged restaurant with table outside in front.
Umberto’s Clam House is a Little Italy staple.
Umberto’s Clam House

Il Cortile

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This is the rare Little Italy restaurant that doesn’t also serve pizza, and offers a tad more elegance, which makes it a not-bad date spot — though the over-the-top decor may disturb some. You didn’t hear us say “skip the veal,” but anything emphasizing cheese makes better ordering. Get the schiacciata, a garlicky mozzarella tart dotted with sausage and artichoke, then finish off the meal with the ricotta cheese pie, which is admirably moist and flavorful.

Tables on a mosaic floor with a Roman statue of a draped woman in the foreground.
The dining room at Il Cortile shows off its Roman roots.
Il Cortile

Manero's of Mulberry

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Named after the hero of Saturday Night Fever, Tony Manero (John Travolta), Manero’s is only a couple of years old, but it’s already developed a reputation for some of the best brick-oven pizzas in the neighborhood, with a puffy and nicely browned crust. It’s also one of the only places in the area to sell pies by the slice, so it’s possible to sample a few of its signature pies at once. Other menu highlights include eggplant lasagna, fried artichokes, caesar salad, and “stuffies” — baked clams stuffed with seasoned breadcrumbs.

Three slices on white paper plates with various toppings.
Manero’s is one of few restaurants in Little Italy to sell pizza by the slice.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Emilio's Ballato

Emilio’s is off the beaten path on the northernmost edge of Little Italy, on a shadowy stretch of Houston Street over which a statue of Puck fromA Midsummer Night’s Dream迫在眉睫。裏麵,找到一個餐廳掛著在改變liers and walls lined with framed photos, over which owner and chef Emilio Vitolo presides. Bowie was a regular, and a little shrine is dedicated to him, and you may spot other celebrities like Lenny Kravitz, Rihanna, or, at least on one occasion,Barack Obama.食物是基本的簡單性。開始with the fried zucchini or the tripe marinara, then proceed to a plate of fresh tagliatelle alla Bolognese or the linguine with white clam sauce.

Photos and paintings hang on the wall of a white tablecloth Italian restaurant, Emilio’s Ballato.
The interior of Emilio’s Ballato suggests great age.
Eater NY

Parm

It’s no surprise that some of the best food in Little Italy can be had at its fresh-faced newcomers, some of which have garnered citywide reputations and become chains. At Parm, the sub shop from chefs Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi, heros rule. The meatballs in meatball parm really melt in your mouth, and the eggplant version offers bottomless depths of flavor at this modern classic in the middle of old Little Italy.

A sandwich cut in half on a seeded roll with squished meatballs and tomato sauce inside.
Parm’s meatball parm.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Rubirosa

For over a decade, Rubirosa has been the favorite family pizza destination of Eater staffers. Go early to secure a table and don’t miss the steamed artichoke or the sweet creamy vodka pizza. Gluten-free diners and large groups are especially pandered to here, and the place has some pedigree: The pies were at least partly inspired by the super thin crusts at Joe & Pat’s in Staten Island, with a branch in the East Village.

A dining room seen at a tilt with people standing and seated and laughing.
The crowded dining room at Rubirosa.
Daniel Krieger/Eater NY

Peasant

Founded in 1999, Peasant was one of the first Italian restaurants in town to prepare most of its menu in a wood-fired oven, which is a magnificent sight to behold in the restaurant. From it fly chickens, whole fish, lamb merguez, and even a whole pig, which must be ordered in advance. Originally founded by Frank DeCarlo, he was replaced by chef Marc Forgione a few years ago, and there’s a newer wine bar in the basement for more informal dining and drinking.

A brick-lined oven with pigs on a spit roast.
The wood-burning oven at Peasant.
Michael Condran/Peasant

Lombardi's

Lombardi’s was, quite simply, the place where modern pizza as we know it was invented. Gennaro Lombardi opened this pizzeria in 1905 (the original was further down Spring Street), using a coal oven to bake his large, profusely topped pies, leagues different from the tinier, barer, and damper pizzas back in Napoli. Consider the clam pie, every bit as good as those at Frank Pepe’s in New Haven. The 16-inch pizza arrives blanketed in tiny bellies, with a lemon propped at its center. Coated in olive oil, the thin crust provides a crunchy, blank canvas for the garlicky, parsley-flecked mollusks.

Four red shirted and white capped employs bend every which way to make the pizzas.
The pizza makers at work in Lombardi’s kitchen.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Pasquale Jones

The pizza is good at this younger sibling of Italian restaurant Charlie Bird, under the direction of chef Ryan Hardy. Some go in unexpected directions, such as the Brussels sprouts pie with red onion, or the Salsiccia, with sweet sausage and leeks. There are some great apps, too, including chopped salads and hamachi crudo, which double as drinking snacks for a wine listmore expensive and adventuresomethan is usual for a pizzeria, making this as much a wine bar as a restaurant.

A chair, many wine glasses, and a whole pie littered with capers and clams.
The clam pie at Pasquale Jones.
Daniel Krieger/Eater NY

Alleva Dairy

Founded in 1892, Alleva claims to be America’s oldest cheese shop. Sure you can get scintillatingly fresh mozzarella and ricotta there, plus a raft of other cheeses appreciated by southern Italians, but Alleva dispenses hero sandwiches, too, of massive girth and incorporating the shop’s own cheeses and cold cuts.

A green awning on a very old looking shop specializing in Italian dairy products.
This century-old cheese shop doubles as a home for massive hero sandwiches.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Di Palo's Fine Foods

This fifth-generation Italian deli owned by Lou, Sal, and Marie Di Palo (one of them is likely to wait on you) opened in 1910 on Mott Street as a latticino, selling freshly made mozzarella and ricotta. Now it specializes in all manner of imported Italian products, especially cheeses and cold cuts. Brace yourself for a wait, though there’s great people watching, and generous samples as you finally transact. Mozzarella and ricotta are still made on the premises.

A skin on bronze colored pork roast cut in thick slices.
Sliced porchetta at Di Palo.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Ferrara Bakery

The hazelnut gelato here is creamy and nutty, or choose from dozens of other flavors, all made in the back. Loaded down with Victorian glitz, the bakery has been doing things right since 1892. The cannoli have a snappy shell, putting the neighbors’ soggy ones to shame, and the sweet ricotta filling has plenty of chocolate chips and candied citrus mixed in. Got room for more? Crackle through the flaky waves of pastry that wrap the Bavarian cream in the luxurious lobster tails, a spinoff of Neapolitan sfogliatelle, which are stuffed with semolina and ricotta and dotted with candied orange peel.

Aunt Jake's

Aunt Jake’s has retooled the idea of an Italian restaurant with a modern design and a menu centered on fresh pastas that allow the customer to mix and match a dozen noodle shapes and the same number of sauces. It’s impossible to go wrong with, say, tagliatelle and an eggy carbonara, or herbed four-cheese ravioli mantled with pesto. There are gluten-free options, too, and the app list is longer and more varied than most, meaning you could make a satisfying meal of mushroom-laced rice balls or avocado and poached-egg toast.

The bowls of pasta, including one at the bottom with a squid ink pasta.
A selection of pastas from Aunt Jake’s.
Aunt Jake’s

Umbertos Clam House

Back in 1972, crime bossJoey Gallowas gunned down here during dinner, making Umbertos famous for generations before theSopranos.The key is to order anything with clams in it. The littlenecks on the half shell are fresh, clean, and ice-cold, and so are the ample martinis. Baked clams, linguine with white clam sauce, seafood Marechiaro (an assortment in red sauce over pasta), and fried calamari with the hottest of the three sauces are further good choices.

一個藍色的awninged restaurant with table outside in front.
Umberto’s Clam House is a Little Italy staple.
Umberto’s Clam House

Il Cortile

This is the rare Little Italy restaurant that doesn’t also serve pizza, and offers a tad more elegance, which makes it a not-bad date spot — though the over-the-top decor may disturb some. You didn’t hear us say “skip the veal,” but anything emphasizing cheese makes better ordering. Get the schiacciata, a garlicky mozzarella tart dotted with sausage and artichoke, then finish off the meal with the ricotta cheese pie, which is admirably moist and flavorful.

Tables on a mosaic floor with a Roman statue of a draped woman in the foreground.
The dining room at Il Cortile shows off its Roman roots.
Il Cortile

Manero's of Mulberry

Named after the hero of Saturday Night Fever, Tony Manero (John Travolta), Manero’s is only a couple of years old, but it’s already developed a reputation for some of the best brick-oven pizzas in the neighborhood, with a puffy and nicely browned crust. It’s also one of the only places in the area to sell pies by the slice, so it’s possible to sample a few of its signature pies at once. Other menu highlights include eggplant lasagna, fried artichokes, caesar salad, and “stuffies” — baked clams stuffed with seasoned breadcrumbs.

Three slices on white paper plates with various toppings.
Manero’s is one of few restaurants in Little Italy to sell pizza by the slice.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

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