頭、皮膚、眼睛和耳朵的桶保存在地下室。屍體的其餘部分冰冷僵硬地掛在一個閃亮的金屬鉤上,準備切片。舌頭、砂囊和肚子都在冰箱裏;一旦一起絞碎,就可以放入冰箱。在樓上,毫無戒備的客人坐在Cadet優雅的長條酒吧裏,聽著輕柔的音樂,人們把酒灌進玻璃杯和玻璃瓶裏,完全沒有意識到樓下的血淋淋。
製作paté奶油酥皮蛋糕是一件很麻煩的事情。
當食客切開一片香氣四溢、味道濃鬱的熟食時,隨著溫度的變化,它的微妙之處從低語變成了喧囂,朗姆酒浸泡的杏子從中間閃爍,就像燃燒的太陽一樣,他們正在切斷喬治·傑斐遜(George Jephson)的癡迷。製作建築paté en croutes的charcutier;翠綠搖曳的錦邦柿葉;還有像麵膜一樣展開的鴨式慕斯(mousse de canard),是Cadet -“caday”的三分之一:漂亮的吧台在上方起伏,而他創作的豬、雞和鴨則在下方休眠。
Cadet餐廳位於倫敦北部的紐靈頓格林(Newington Green),已經開業數周,它將法式熟食、烹飪和葡萄酒結合在一起,這並不新鮮。主廚傑米·斯瑪特的菜品,湯姆·比蒂和弗朗西斯·羅伯茨的菜品不僅展現了巴黎洞穴的風情,還展現了法國中部的小村莊Chassignolles和著名的Auberge對於那些想要熟練掌握這種法國鄉村烹飪方言的倫敦廚師來說,它已經成為了一種天使,然後再把它翻譯成首都的聲音。
但這恰恰意味著學員和其他新來者在坎伯韋爾的Veraison;赫克托耳的,《波伏娃》;以及在霍洛威重新開放的規定和Furanxo在達爾斯頓,我真的有了新的感覺。不是為了在倫敦開酒吧,甚至不是法國人:死去的土爾人它的兄弟姐妹也會提出異議。
讓人感覺不同的是,這些酒吧和在裏麵工作的人都是在領導,有時是先鋒的酒吧(P. Franco,釀酒師俱樂部)和餐館(聖約翰,西部片洗衣,明亮的,福羅)不再覺得有必要有意識地區分他們的靈感,無論他們來自城市還是農村。
隨著先驅者逐漸成為家具的一部分,凱迪特(Cadet)這樣的新開業也從它們中湧現出來,人們有可能實時見證倫敦葡萄酒行業的成熟,就像它的酒瓶一樣,被藏在地窖裏,生生死死。
他們不用擔心不小心假裝自己是巴黎或奧弗涅,也不用試圖在幾個小時內假裝客人不在他們稱之為家的城市。天然葡萄酒的批評者們並沒有把它當作一根棍子,讓它滑向淺層的聖像破壞;東倫敦和其他地方之間,也不需要懶洋洋的楔子,也不需要P.弗蘭科和聖約翰之間。
成熟就是認識到這些地方的共同點總是比它們之間所暗示的年份要多。Cadet是紐靈頓格林大街上的一家法國酒吧。這裏有非常好的葡萄酒、熟食和簡單的食物,食材都是精心挑選的。倫敦有空間這麼做,也想這麼做。人們在日常生活中有這樣的空間,而不是為了逃避現實或某個特殊場合。它是自信的,它不需要煙火,它也不需要聲稱更多。
正如法國人所說,生活就是好。
看看周圍。
![一個穿藍色圍裙的男人站在吧台後麵](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/t-PvK5mX3RPZyudQQ7h7EEs6wjE=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043913/cadet004.jpg)
![四名身穿白色t恤和藍色圍裙的男子站在一家酒吧外,一起站在藍色的桌子周圍。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/wTvbrozErYTagLgg6UdgvqsXtgs=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043957/cadet067.jpg)
![三個男人站在一個棕色和藍色的吧台後麵準備蔬菜](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/cvIGcJrPgm4M_pQ2oXS66mhyJl0=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043981/cadet030.jpg)
![白色印花,藍色字體的paté en croute字樣,中間是熟食店的鏤空圖案。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/aHnkXKovO__D9U9V1smhQvPY8gU=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043947/cadet053.jpg)
![一個穿著白色t恤的男人,後麵有一個紅色的標誌,上麵用垂直的白色大寫字母印著Cadet這個詞。他手裏拿著一個金屬模子裏的生的patê蛋黃醬。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/5tWD0xdbPC-gxbgZlrVSNpvOSbk=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043935/cadet040.jpg)
![一個男人用尺子切一塊糕點。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/tM7rMxrOo0Udt9NqtxoZVz20nfI=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043917/cadet015.jpg)
![將糕點模塑成長方形的金屬罐。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/GpE2SbcrQQGTYCubicQbWRdNmuI=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043919/cadet018.jpg)
![廚師在一個圓罐裏模塑糕點。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/j7DquPdMSm2pKZ6VsMA7kLmnWFc=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043924/cadet027.jpg)
![用糕點刷蘸上橙黃色的蛋黃,準備刷生糕點。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/BZ83mfxV9oExZmjMNxTxKChlw-4=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043928/cadet032.jpg)
![糕點刷在做它的事情,在糕點上刷上金色的蛋黃。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/kqZ8Q9Pxzlf3_qX0GuYl9yvunYw=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043929/cadet033.jpg)
![一名男子抱著一具豬屍體。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/mt_G_KMqUyFvWKALbhW3ksBVqyE=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043920/cadet019.jpg)
![用一層一層的鬧劇和鹹肉填滿糕點模具。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/akFw__JPme9qlJva1nSv1Mn7aSw=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043932/cadet036.jpg)
![從左到右:開心果、杏幹、雞肝和塑料桶裏的鬧劇。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/_QDd-BLab-sd64CfAWhjuCD84og=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043931/cadet035.jpg)
![把開心果撒在糕點模具裏。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/7O4CJ7Cn2KBhS-clqCiSY1jJwPU=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043933/cadet037.jpg)
![將酥皮折疊在熟食餡料上。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/fvrOxU-v6zkpF9YdAAp7bvOd7dU=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043934/cadet039.jpg)
![用蛋黃刷蛋卷。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/iWZjNGkzNQREzNHb3DxEMaO1LWU=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043941/cadet046.jpg)
![將金屬切割機插入未煮熟的paté en croute,以便做出一個通風口。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/57f2-rVXqsI4kVi9xz0qfCPBtLI=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043942/cadet047.jpg)
![在每個通風口的頂部放置一圈無釉糕點。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/UAF_J1Xw49IHaeOvYa-jrlPO_vc=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043943/cadet048.jpg)
![加上一個由箔紙製成的高通風口。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/6h90FTq858Y5GPqDY8f0Q9zwtoc=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043944/cadet050.jpg)
![把麵包卷放進烤箱。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/sJnvKonsfrFnTb3zI4ofj32pJmo=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043950/cadet056.jpg)
![用噴燈把烤好的麵包卷從罐子裏拆下來。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/spC_11FnRjibkCIDALbz2Fq1t8g=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043951/cadet058.jpg)
![我們來嚐嚐paté法式麵包卷。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/95VnzwvWEkI1wHkjEC5HYxbmjYc=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043952/cadet061.jpg)
![一個paté奶油蛋糕的切口,杏仁貫穿中心。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/74el7ZXOZ6P8uSCaj7Xd-0PhPKA=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043953/cadet062.jpg)
![把一片黃瓜和一片paté乳酪卷餅放在一起。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/vX_bsaLqlBNVK29RyuQnfRZlSSY=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043955/cadet064.jpg)
![一份paté焗麵包,配上一杯紅酒。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/XK2yp5N_pc9sQ80YY5XYcxplE4s=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043956/cadet065.jpg)
![黑板上用大寫字母寫的菜單。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/BKytzQmLetjsANgJZB22IE5lb8Y=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043948/cadet054.jpg)
![一個穿著白t恤的人在黑板上用白粉筆寫著酒的杯子。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/zFoQA1Nu6G04UTns7hTzinwDEUA=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043949/cadet055.jpg)
![一個穿著圍裙的男人在豆莢裏放著豆子,後麵是一排排的酒杯、一瓶瓶法國烈酒和揚聲器。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/uhSgK02xG84mQlqensbrGEmKtOg=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043927/cadet031.jpg)
![一群人在紐靈頓格林大街的Cadet外麵轉悠。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/7KEt_v6BPXrPlJJ6J3Kbt7K8U2I=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043977/cadet100.jpg)
![五瓶紅酒裝在一桶冰裏。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/r4_VLgOuBYOVlBPzgtWjXOX1dEI=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043968/cadet085.jpg)
![一瓶rosé被放入冰中。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/DvP1rEYLgATTDz8qhMrvaQXKVx8=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043962/cadet073.jpg)
![一隻手用刀切成一片paté en croute。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/PvjP0qQTW06LbracYA8hv9q88y4=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043971/cadet090.jpg)
麵包卷在晚間再次出現,但傑米·斯瑪特的廚房裏還有更多的東西。
![裝在豆莢裏的可可豆木箱。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/CNlR-2sdYiIRscNuyqEcK467Kt4=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043923/cadet024.jpg)
![一盤放在布上的吉羅勒蘑菇。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/6KWeloHQVgaNvhqrfloRakGib64=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043926/cadet029.jpg)
![一個小金屬鍋,裏麵放著切好的洋蔥丁、吉蘿和黃油。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/YhECmpbnjemAgM-nSC9wlbD-c6E=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24047497/cadet095.jpg)
![一個廚師的手把吉羅勒蘑菇放在一盤豆子上。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/aXySOCw3UZoM_jiuTUtaFz_ASDY=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043975/cadet096.jpg)
![一名服務員端著兩盤可可豆和麵包。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/xNYC8dLd8cjApvFO9lvRrdr_82Q=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043976/cadet097.jpg)
![一排罐子的泡菜,無花果葉醋,和其他發酵。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/rVIwepkp3_r1JpDMKfKXE_2RD1Y=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043925/cadet028.jpg)
![一名用餐者在兩杯葡萄酒的背景下切開了一盤大比目魚和綠胡瓜。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/-LF7Huse2oIlGN8oaPdpL9KXLIA=/0x0:1600x1067/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1600x1067):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043972/cadet092.jpg)
![從擠壓瓶裏往一碗番茄湯裏滴橄欖油。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/LC9PmBUhcJIXn-V-QgX_fMs_HLU=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043965/cadet078.jpg)
![一盤有棱角分明的蜂蜜蛋撻,旁邊放一勺奶油。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/3a7k4wpKy-uGRqWj73IgUG2P24k=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043974/cadet094.jpg)
![同時端上三盤paté乳酪卷餅。](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/zgwaxzpaSG6WsAr0pBYdxsBmpOo=/0x0:1067x1600/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:1067x1600):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24043966/cadet079.jpg)