Nagrant Says Elske is an 'Inspired' Knockout; Bad Hunter Delivers Uncharted Flavors; More

Michael Nagrant thinksElskewas one of 2016’s best new restaurants.From the outdoor fireplace to the cozy candle-lit dining room, David and Anna Posey make guests feel right at home. The "smart, clean dishes [are] grounded in natural techniques and earthy ingredients," such as a mesmerizing composition of roast maitake mushrooms and shaved chestnuts in a pear cream sauce that’s like "some kind ofpheromonic bat signal." A bowl of celeriac "risotto" is "more toothsome and satisfying than the most al dente rice, while a "graceful" and "delightful" bed of scrambled eggs swaddles chicken confit and smoky carrots. Anna’s "daring and thoughtful" desserts round out the meal and include rye bread pudding served with stellar quince sorbet and crispy puffed amaranth, sorghum and rice that are "as addictive as popcorn." Overall, the couple is living up to the hype by delivering "inspired, natural and beautiful food." [RedEye]

芝加哥的烹飪場景提供了一個無盡的正在t of options butno restaurant comes close to "celebrating the delicious possibilities the vegetable kingdom offers as Bad Hunter."Lisa Shames praises chef Dan Snowden for creating "vegetable-focused dishes like you’ve never had before." Tempura-fried lemons and delicate squash is a "weird dish that works wonderfully" while Romanesco broccoli benefits from the deep fryer and two Spanish-style sauces. Pasta dishes are equally "terrific"—saffron farfalle topped with hearty root vegetable Bolognese is "as comforting as any traditional meat sauce." Even desserts trend toward botanic life; a "beautiful and delicious" red curry squash tart is an "intriguing" finish. [CS]

The city deserves better Cajun-creole cooking than what’s coming out of the kitchen atFifolet.Mike Sula calls the chicken jambalaya "forgettable," as is fried Cornish hen served with dirty rice. Other misfires include "bland, soggy" crawfish-tail fritters and "dull, stomach-busting" gnocchi with "underseasoned" brussels sprouts and baby corn that are a "sorry offering for the vegetarians in your company." But it’s not all bad news. The gumbo is "so spot-on," imparting the right bitter-coffee notes. Similarly, corn bread casserole "pairs nicely" with candied collard greens, and fried green tomatoes are a nice "surprise." Dessert is also an up-and-down affair, offering beignets and a "disastrous" bananas Foster that "crumbles at the slightest touch." While the effort is appreciated, Sula thinks the restaurant leaves a lot to be desired. [Reader]

Estereois the all-day bar that Chicago needs, writes Elizabeth Atkinson.The Wes Anderson-ish style and "leave your worries at the door" vibe make it the perfect place to spend a few hours. Drinks change regularly but the house specialty Breezy is an "easy sipper year-round—light with just enough body to pull us through the cold winter." Bright South American tunes and warm yellow lighting help provide a "welcome respite from the winter gloom," which every Chicagoan could use right about now. [TOC]