大衛·張的哈佛大學演講:“發酵是一種文化普遍的

哈佛大學的第三年科學與烹飪公開講座係列讓來自世界各地的廚師講科學和烹飪的十字路口。和食者波士頓貢獻的作家加布Bellegard巴斯托斯在現場。本周:David Chang的百福。

(照片:妮可Fonsh]

昨天,哈佛大學的係列講座繼續廚師David Chang微生物世界,他鑽研探索一個過程——發酵,在最基本的層麵上,是糖類和蛋白質的分解小分子。或者,正如張描述,“當爛吧。”更多的specifically, his lecture focused on fermentation byAspergilus oryzae或koji,真菌的轉換負責穀物,如大豆、醬油、味噌、和。

誠然“言過其實的拖車”的講座開始晚上的明星,特寫鏡頭,Aspergilus oryzae發酵,稱讚為“機械的味道。”Chang believes that what makes his subject different from others in the lecture series is that fermentation is not a new technique; it's the production of new flavors. When he first started giving this lecture four years ago, his goal was to produce "pork-bushi," or a pork variation of katsuobushi, bonito fish that has been dried, fermented, and smoked. This collaboration between Chang and Harvard scientists Rachel Dutton and Ben Wolfe eventually led to the epiphany that microbes are intimately tied to the production of umami. "Microbes produce enzymes, enzymes develop amino acids, glutamic acid + aspartic acid = umami,鮮味=美味,”他解釋道。

為了顯示常意味著什麼,丹鑲嵌地塊,百福的R & D實驗室,顯示一個教學視頻。雖然張最初請求的一個動畫,這一事實鑲嵌地塊隻有24小時生產視頻最終破壞了其產值娛樂效果。值得慶幸的是,視頻的教育內容是完好無損。,鑲嵌地塊相比更大的分子,如肽(長鏈氨基酸),鋼擦洗和蛋白酶酶(減少蛋白質的生物分子)鋼絲鉗,慢慢減少擦洗很小的金屬碎片。

應該注意的是,蛋白酶並不是唯一分解代謝的微生物產生的酶。通過控製發酵女士“3”——微生物,媒介(微生物分解),和修飾符(如濕度和熱)——可以控製其主要產品將成為什麼樣的人。Aspergilus oryzae還負責生產。不同之處在於,而不是被分解成肽umami-creating氨基酸,為了生產取決於大糖分子被澱粉酶分解成乙醇。自“發酵不是魔術,”它比較容易預測發酵的主要產品是什麼,多少人會生產。通過量綱分析,釀酒商可以將他們添加的糖轉化成最後的酒精含量。

鮮味一樣常做飯的中心,他的興趣Aspergilus oryzae也是出於他對進口產品的質量差。他提醒聽眾,白鬆露,橄欖油,實情,更貼切地味噌和醬油進口到美國是“廢話”。常說:“世界上的其他國家發送我們最糟糕的。”He hopes to be able to produce some of these products here in the US, with American ingredients, and match the quality of their foreign counterparts.

常帶來了三個不同的例子從日本菜得到靈感的食品,在他的實驗室和生產原料的紐約州:向日葵種子”hozon,“farro“bonji,”和“XO”固體後仍然farro bonji一直追問。這些產品強調術語的問題。也就是說,是一個產品在技術上味噌如果是來源於大豆嗎?Chang鑲嵌地塊,瑞安·米勒,百福的產品開發廚師,選擇使用“hozon”來指代miso-like產品,和“bonji”參考產品類似於醬油。更重要的是,這些產品品味美國或日本嗎?Chang說,“他們嚐起來像紐約。”This claim is supported by the fact that, even though "fermentation is a cultural universal," the species and strains responsible for fermentation differ greatly by region and those seemingly small differences have profound effects on taste and texture.

常的結束他的演講致力於強調他和他的團隊所遇到的挑戰。他的研究小組最近搬進了一個新的、更大的設施,使他們能夠從生產一公斤hozon在一批多達六十公斤。增加團隊的驚喜,這不是簡單“我們所有成分乘以60歲。”Chang recounted meeting a koji master in Japan and at first being surprised that after the rice had been cooled, the master was the only one to ever touch the koji. After multiple failed batches, Chang understands those restrictions and how delicate a process manipulating microbes can be. For this reason, Chang and his team have followed very strict scientific research guidelines, abiding by the "question everything, embrace failure, and write it down" paradigm. Chang rejects the idea of luck, preferring the concept of "making the right mistakes."

最終常比較的影響他追求體驗藝術的現代藝術博物館。他希望發現想法看似平凡的和明顯的,他們將迫使其他人驚呼“我可以那樣做!”Fermentation, miso, and soy sauce have been around for centuries, yet so far, the practices and rituals around it have been as regional as the fermenting microbes themselves. By bringing the scientific method into his kitchen, Chang cooks food that breaks down cultural differences by celebrating geographical ones.

——加布Bellegard巴斯托斯

哈佛大學科學和烹飪係列講座持續周一,11月25日,Nathan Myhrvold》一書的作者現代烹飪:烹飪的藝術和科學。座位自由事件是先到,先得,可以找到更多的細節在哈佛大學的網站上。
·所有人David Chang報道[- e -)
·所有報道的哈佛大學的科學和烹飪係列講座之人[- e -)